Saturday, July 11, 2009

The Truth About HD Makeup

There is a lot of hype about "HD" makeup - some good, lots not so. Check out this recent article. And yet another article on examples. Like everything new, the cosmetics industry is full of false claims jumping on the band wagon to sell, sell, sell to the unsuspecting public and it hurts companies and products that do what they say they do.

Be careful who you listen to and what you read. Just because an artist claims to have done say the "Geminis" for instance, doesn't mean they were the key or have years of experience, or can do more than the easy fresh, unblemished skin of a model. A great example is many articles I see in magazines touting the use of black mascara and eyeliner for Caucasian skins - yikes - who are these people and how do they achieve "expert" status?. If you're looking for "fashion forward" ok, but fresh, elegance? Run, don't walk away, from this kind of advice.

OK back to what works well for that "HD" look. Here's the deal - its simply looking fresh, flawless, natural - you know, the same old, same old. And what does that mean - "natural" most often takes more work than the drag queen approach to a finished look. What's really important is to achieve a fresh clean canvas (skin). Taking good care of it is #1 - but more on that in an upcoming post. So your choice of product and its application is next.

For this Maven's money here's what I use for TV, bridal, photography, film - and yes, myself. But first MATCH YOUR SKIN COLOUR EXACTLY checking at the jaw line. And remember if your face is a different colour that your decolletage due to sun exposure then match with the area that will have the most public exposure.

My Faves -

  1. MAC Face and Body, topped with Dermablend or Kett Sett finishing powder (white in colour) or MAC Blot Powder.
  2. Revlon Colourstay Softflex liquid foundation, topped as above.
  3. For more coverage, I use Cinema Secrets cream foundation (requires a light spray of water), topped with a finishing powder as above, Audrey Morris Dual Powder or MAC Studio Fix.
  4. For full coverage (including tatoos, Capillary vascular malformation/Port-wine stain), Dermablend and sometimes mixed with Cinema Secrets is fabulous. Topped with the finishing powder, which, by the way, waterproofs the makeup and lasts all day.
The trick is in the application with these or any other product that work for you.strokes so as not to disturb the fine hair on the face using either a triangle makeup sponge (which absorbs a bit of the product) or a foundation brush. Thin layering working from the center of the face outward, using a brush or sponge is the trick. Pay special attention to around the nose inside corners of the eyes and under eyes (if required). Makeup sure to clean your brush or sponge weekly with a light shampoo and air dry for perfect performance.

DON'T
put cream or liquid on the eyelid if you want your eyeshadow to last all day. Use a primer or simply the dual finish powder works fabulously as a primer. However, cover the lid if you're not intending to use a shadow and only if your lid colouration needs the coverage.

TIP:
Want that Jlo Glow? Lightly dust a soft shimmer powder over checks and collar bones.

TIP:
Use 45 sunblock as a moisturizer (my personal fave is Umbrelle #60) under dual powder foundation and achieve a spectacular glow while also protecting your skin.

Information, Lessons, Manuals, Services

Sharon Danley, Master Artist


416-361-9662


www.sharondanley.com

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